Seafood from Kerala

Very often, I find myself drawing parallels between Assam (the state I come from) and Kerala. Set apart geographically, on opposite sides of the subcontinent, Assam being in the Northeast and Kerala in the Southwest, it is amazing to see the similarity in food, customs and dress. Maybe there was an intermingling of cultures at some point in time.

Was there a migration of sorts I wonder? Can somebody out there throw some light on this or should one put this down to pure coincidence?

Both states are predominantly rice and fish eaters. The difference here is that the Assamese are used to eating fresh water fish only and find the strong flavour and smell of sea fish a bit unpleasant in some of their preparations. I suppose one can put it down to the absence of spices, which mask strong flavours, in Assamese cooking.

However, since I live in Chennai which is on the coast, I don’t have easy access to fresh water fish of my choice. So I have worked my way around this problem.

I get the fishmonger to fillet the fish that I am buying. Once the skin and bones are removed there is almost no fishy smell. (This is where most of the 'fishiness' lies).

One can also smear a paste made from besan (gram flour) and water onto the filleted fish and leave it on for about half an hour. Wash in several changes of water. Dry thoroughly before using.

I also fry the fish lightly before adding it to any curry, even if the recipe doesn’t call for it.  I follow these steps not only for Assamese cooking but for Kerala cooking as well, many recipes of which instruct you to add raw fish to the boiling curry.

This fish curry from Kerala is a family favourite. It is light, flavourful and very fresh tasting. This is how I make it.

Fish Molee

The ingredients

Seer fish or any fleshy fish of your choice     600 Gms, filleted

Salt                                                              1 tsp

Turmeric powder                                         1 tsp

Oil                                                              2 tsp

 Oil for shallow frying

Wash and dry the fish fillets. Cut into slices. Blend together the next three ingredients and rub well into the fish. Set aside for about 10-15 mins.

 Heat a heavy bottomed skillet until a drop of water sizzles, and then pour in the oil for frying. This will prevent the fish slices from sticking to the pan.

Fry a few slices of fish at a time until lightly browned on either side. Lift carefully with a fish slice and drain on kitchen paper to remove excess oil. Set aside.

The gravy

Coconut oil                              1½ Tbls

Onions, sliced                          ¾ cup

Ginger, juliennes                      ⅓ cup

Green chillies                           4-5, sliced

Curry leaf                                3-4 sprigs

Turmeric powder                     ½ tsp

Coconut milk                           2 cups

Hot water as required

Fried fish

Vinegar                                    1 ½ Tbls

Salt to taste         

Corn flour                               2 tsps

Heat the coconut oil gently in a heavy bottomed pan. Sauté the onions, ginger, green chillies, turmeric powder and a few curry leaves until the onions become limp.

Add 1 cup of coconut milk along with ½ a cup of hot water and bring to a gentle boil.

Lower the fried fish into the simmering gravy along with the vinegar, more crushed curry leaves and salt to taste. This needs to simmer gently for about 7–8 mins for all the fresh flavours to come together. Blend in the corn flour with the remaining coconut milk and add it to the simmering curry. Continue the gentle simmer until the gravy thickens; about 2–3 mins.

Serve with rice or crusty bread.